Handy Hints

We are often asked about cutting cardstock to size for card-making. 

Cutting A5 card bases from 12" cardstock.
Starting with a piece of 12" x 12" cardstock, we begin by determining the 'grain' of the cardstock. By working with the grain when we fold our card base, the card is less likely to fracture along the fold line. (The tendency to fracture can be further reduced by scoring the card before folding - see later notes on this). We find some cardstock is more prone to fracturing (ie. Bling, Core'dinations and Stardream).

Hold the card lightly by resting your palms against two opposite sides. Gently flex the card by pushing the edges SLIGHTLY towards each other so the middle of the card lifts slightly.
Now turn the card a quarter-turn and repeat the above step.
You should notice that one way is easier to flex than the other.
Hold the card in the position in which it is easier to flex.
Keeping the bottom edge of the 12"x12" card towards you, lay the card on your work surface. Use a ruler to measure across the top edge 21cm from the left and mark this point.
Measure across the bottom edge 21cm from the left and mark this point.
Cut from top mark to bottom mark and put aside the narrower strip to the right of the cut.
On the remaining piece (21cm wide x 12" high), measure 14.8cm up from the bottom on each side and mark.
Cut across from mark to mark. The piece from below the cut is your first A5 card base.
On the remainder of the card from above the last cut, measure 14.8cm down from the top edge on each side, mark and cut across from mark to mark. This is your second A5 card base.
The 9cm x 12" strip you put aside is great for layers on top of your card base or for making smaller cards.

If you are using a cutter or guillotine to cut your cardstock, after you have determined the bottom edge of the card as above, slip the card into the cutter and line up the left hand edge of the card with the A4 marking. Cut. Turn the piece of cardstock that remains on the cutter a quarter-turn, line up the new left hand edge with the A5 marking and cut. Put the piece from outside to cutter back in and cut to A5.

Common card base measurements.
A5 - 21 cm wide x 14.8cm high
DL - 21 cm wide x 21 cm high

American books tend to present cards in the following sizes
4" x 9" (base would be 8" x 9")
4 1/2" "x 6" (base 9" x 6")
5" x 5" (base 10" x 5")
5 1/2" x 8" (base 11" x 8")
Re inches and centimetres.

We are often asked why we tend to work in inches when our card bases are metric. As we explain in class, most of our cardstock and papers comes as 12" x 12". It is most economical to cut the panels we decorate our cards with to 3", 4" and 6" measurements when cutting for classes.

Scoring and Folding
Have your card base with what will be the outside of the card facing up (usually the textured side). For an A5 card base, have a 21cm edge facing you. Use a ruler and pencil to measure and lightly mark 10.5cm from the left across top and bottom edges. Lay the ruler between the pencil marks. Run a Lil Chizzler or a bone scorer down the card along the edge of the ruler from top mark to bottom mark. This crushes the fibres of the cardstock along the foldline, making fracture less likely. Erase pencil marks and fold your card inwards. You can sharpen the fold by running the Chizzler or bone scorer down the folded card. Do this from the back of the card or have a layer of scrap paper between the Chizzler/scorer and your card to prevent polishing of the card front.

Rabbit Ears!!!!!!

If you have ever been to one of Jill's classes you would have been taught this technique. It is a great way to ensure that your  layers go on straight.

Adhere tape around edges of your layer.

Remove the first 1 1/2" or 4 cm of one end of each backing piece of tape. 

Adhere your layer in place. As only a small amount of the tape is exposed the layer will stay in place but you are able to move it around to get it straight or lift it and reposition without damaging the layer.

Once you are happy with the position, pull on the exposed pieces of tape backing and remove them and press down on the layer to adhere it in place.
(Apologies for the quality of these pictures, we were having trouble on the day getting the correct focus and lighting. It could have been the camera, it could have been the operator. I will take more shots next time we make another card and repost clearer images.)
Stop Static Pads
This item is very handy when you are heat embossing. We use it on all types of card and paper. It is a must when you are heat embossing on coated card like Stardream, Bazzill Bling, Foil board and Gloss card. 
Rub the pad over your piece of card or paper, stamp on your image, pour over embossing powder, tip off the excess, tap the card to remove any tiny particles that may be left behind and heat emboss. The pad coats the card with a fine layer of powder and removes the static so the embossing powder does not stick to the card surface, only to the inked image. 
Once you start using it you will never stop.

1 comment:

  1. Extra from Jill - I also consider the Stop Static pad a MUST when using embossing powder with glitter in it, such as Zing.